COMME DES GARÇONS - THE STORY BEHIND THE STYLE

Rei Kawakubo approaches fashion as a form of creative expression, not compromise. Since founding Comme des Garçons in 1969, the Tokyo-born designer has redefined assumptions about fashion, beauty, and the body. From the provocative 1997 "Lumps and Bumps" collection to Dover Street Market's "beautiful chaos," Kawakubo doesn't follow trends—she creates entirely new conversations. 

Comme des Garçons Blue Floral Patterned Top

Comme des Garçons Blue Floral Patterned Top

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Comme des Garçons Blue Floral Patterned Top

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Comme des Garçons Blue Floral Patterned Skirt

Comme des Garçons Blue Floral Patterned Skirt

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Comme des Garçons Blue Floral Patterned Skirt

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THE STARTING POINT

The iconic fashion house Comme des Garçons was founded in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo, a designer who studied fine art and literature at Keio University in Tokyo. She wasn't initially drawn to the fashion world, but dissatisfied with the clothing options available, she felt compelled to create her own garments that embraced creative freedom and represented her uncompromising vision.

Her first runway show debuted in 1981. Many French fashion critics called it "Hiroshima Chic" at the time. The looks that walked down that runway changed the trajectory of high fashion. While houses like Mugler were creating elegant tailoring that hugged and accentuated women's bodies, Rei was doing the opposite—building women's bodies into entirely different forms. Her silhouettes were deemed unflattering and highly unconventional, yet undeniably revolutionary.

Comme Des Garçons Bunched Skirt in Black

Comme Des Garçons Bunched Skirt in Black

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Comme Des Garçons Bunched Skirt in Black

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Comme Des Garçons Cone Check Skirt

Comme Des Garçons Cone Check Skirt

Comme Des Garçons Cone Check Skirt

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97 SHOW: "BODY MEETS DRESS, DRESS MEETS BODY"

"After extensive searching and thinking through new ideas, just before time ran out, I realized that the clothes could be the body and the body could be the clothes," Rei Kawakubo reflects.

This revelation led to the iconic Spring/Summer 1997 show, "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body"—also known as the "Lumps and Bumps" collection. It became a turning point for the fashion house and high fashion in general. Models walked the runway in padded garments that emphasized the belly, back, and other unexpected places, directly challenging stereotypes about women's bodies and beauty standards.

"I remember feeling rather uncomfortable about the 'lumps and bumps' collection," journalist Suzy Menkes says about the show, which was held at the Musée national des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie. "At first look, it seemed like a disfigurement—as though these were cancerous cells protruding through the fabrics, which appeared, by contrast, upbeat; even jolly. As so often with Rei Kawakubo's collections, there was the shock of incomprehension followed by visual memories that last a lifetime."

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fatigue Blazer

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fatigue Blazer

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fatigue Blazer

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Cargo T-Shirt

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Cargo T-Shirt

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Cargo T-Shirt

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HOMME PLUS

The menswear collection debuted in 1978 with a focus on unconventional tailoring. This line experimented with fabric dyeing and manipulation, incorporating patchwork details into standard tailoring techniques. The Homme Plus collection blurred the lines of gender, making innovative decisions that pushed menswear design forward.

SIX MAGAZINE

The fashion house branched into new territory with Six Magazine, an art and culture-forward publication designed by Tsuguya Inoue, edited by Atsuko Kozasu, and overseen by Rei herself. Released alongside each Comme des Garçons collection, the magazine featured work from renowned fashion photographers including Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Steven Meisel, and Timothy Greenfield-Sanders. With thoughtful commentary on art and culture, Six Magazine celebrated lifestyle beyond the fashion world, aligning perfectly with the house's ethos.

PARTNERSHIPS

Comme des Garçons has become known for unexpected collaborations that bridge high fashion and street culture. Notable partnerships include Converse sneakers, a Gucci tote collaboration, Salomon footwear, and Stüssy shirting—each maintaining the house's distinct aesthetic while reaching new audiences.

DOVER STREET MARKET

Founded by Rei Kawakubo and her business partner Adrian Joffe, Dover Street Market was created to reimagine the traditional shopping experience. Their vision was to spotlight independent designers in an entirely new way and create a destination for diverse creative voices.

The first location opened on Dover Street in London. Following its success, the concept expanded globally, opening stores in Tokyo, Singapore, Beijing, Los Angeles, New York, and Paris. Credited as one of the first true concept stores, Dover Street Market merged high fashion and streetwear with art installations, found objects, and curated surprises. Rei calls it "beautiful chaos." The stores have become community hubs where creatives gather, connect, and find inspiration.

Comme des Garçons Rubberized Dress front

Comme des Garçons Rubberized Dress

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Comme des Garçons Rubberized Dress

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Layered Button Blazer

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Layered Button Blazer

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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Layered Button Blazer

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THE MET GALA 2017

Twenty years after "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body," the Met's Costume Institute honored Rei Kawakubo with a landmark exhibition. "Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important and influential designers of the past forty years," said curator Andrew Bolton. "By inviting us to rethink fashion as a site of constant creation, recreation, and hybridity, she has defined the aesthetics of our time."

The exhibition featured 120 Comme des Garçons designs spanning from the 1997 show to the present. Mannequins were placed throughout different spaces, showcasing various time periods and categories to explore the concept of "in-betweenness." The garments were presented at eye level with no barriers, making Kawakubo's revolutionary vision more accessible than ever before.



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