MOMENTS IN TIME | DENIM
SERGE FROM NÎMES
17th-century Nîmes, France, gave birth to a fabric that's withstood the test of time — literally and metaphorically. Originally called "Serge de Nîmes", this name was shortened to denim. Weavers used Indigo to give the fabric its distinct blue hue. The deep indigo dye and tight weave made it ideal for laborers who needed clothing that could endure grueling work without falling apart.
TRADITIONAL WORKWEAR
In the 20th century, this fabric became a workwear staple for miners, farmers, and mechanics in the US. The durability enabled working men to wear these trousers for protection and comfort during laborious tasks.
The world of denim evolved when people began frequenting 1930s dude ranches in the West. Wealthy Easterners witnessed real ranch workers herding cattle, horseback riding, and performing other tasks in the blue trousers. Guests began to emulate this "Wild West Uniform" when visiting the ranch and slowly turned denim into a cultural symbol.
BIKER CULTURE
The 1940s and 1950s gave way to a new silhouette crafted from this familiar fabric. A slightly slimmer cut and lower rise became popular and sported by motorcyclists who used the garment for protection and a new marker for their identity. Often paired with a leather jacket, denim trousers became so popular that 4,000 bikers were recorded wearing both garments at the 1947 Fourth of July rally in Hollister, California.
During this time, denim also took the form of the jacket and vest amongst bikers. American GIs who took their denim overseas returned to the states and formed groups such as the Hell's Angels Motorcycle Club from San Bernardino, California. These veterans used denim jackets and attached their military squadron insignia to represent their allegiance and honors. Through these patches and insignia, denim transformed from purely functional gear into a canvas for identity. This set the stage for the rebellious youth culture that would soon claim it as their uniform.
COUNTERCULTURE INFLUENCE
Denim now represented going against the grain. Youth culture was rampant and denim rebellion was on the horizon. The mainstream media spread this discourse through the styling of films such as James Dean's Rebel Without a Cause and Marlon Brando's The Wild One. Levi Strauss and Co., the choice denim manufacturer at the time, played a pivotal role in popularizing this with the invention of the 501 style. This iconic button-fly jean features a straight-leg silhouette with 5 pockets total.
Worn by young Hollywood stars in cinema, The 501's association with rebellion led to jeans being banned in some American schools, ironically only fuelling their status as a symbol of youthful defiance.
INTRODUCTION TO THE FASHION INDUSTRY
The 1970s and 1980s continued to expand the universe of denim through fashion. In 1976, womenswear designer Gloria Vanderbilt introduced the first designer jeans line made for women in collaboration with the Murjani group. The line was described as "the first designer jeans in the world and first jeans exclusively designed to fit a woman," by Murjani. The release was a massive success and shortly after In 1978, prominent designer Calvin Klein launched his own jeans collection. 2 years later, a 15-year-old Brooke Shields faced the cover of a controversial Klein advertisement that caused conversation around suggestive copywriting and denim, catapulting jeans into the luxury market. The momentum surrounding this new fascination with denim inspired the industry to continue innovating denim.
DENIM INNOVATION
Maison Margiela's use of deconstruction further innovated denim with the introduction of the iconic cut-off slash jeans. This pair of jeans is a manifestation of the house's decortiqué technique — a design method meant to resemble a garment peeled down to its skeleton. Margiela uses the art of revealing to change the way denim is represented in the luxury space.
Marine Serre's philosophy on fabric regeneration gives denim a unique look. Often using upcycled materials and quality craftsmanship to construct new garments, the brand's commitment to sustainability is unwavering regardless of the design. Many of the iconic moon-printed denim garments from their collections are made of organic denim twill. Their garments range from timeless denim jackets and straight-leg trousers to new silhouettes that flatter the body.
The same rebellious nature denim assumed in the 40s and 50s, is alive and well within the luxury fashion industry today. Vetements took the torch and scorched the mainstream through public stunts such as hijacking the designer floor of Galeries Lafayette during opening hours for a fashion show and other audacious initiatives. From 2017 through 2019, the brand collaborated with Levi's to revive the 501 silhouette through the lens of Vetements. This was achieved through logo-printing, patchwork designs, and reinventing a classic silhouette through new materials.
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