Curated by our ANT/ - BUYER / CREAT/VE D/RECTOR, Karlo Steel.
JW ANDERSON CROPPED CONTRAST SLEEVE TAILORED JACKET
What’s dressy, what’s casual? What’s considered sportswear and what’s formal? Those questions, and certainly many more, have been asked by the brilliant postmodern mind of JW Anderson. One answer to that question can be found in his cropped, one button blazer, in midnight wool with the sleeves finished with glossy black elasticized cuff. Y’know, the kind of cuff you’d find on a waterproof parka? It’s a clever trick. But then again, Mr. Anderson is a clever designer.
Versatility is a term often bandied about when speaking about clothes. But rarely does a garment posses TRUE versatility by way of disassembling. Act N°1’s three part trench is the exception, allowing the wearer to play with multiple variations with individual parts: a bolero, a cropped sleeveless jacket, a skirt, worn individually or together… I counted 12 combinations before plunging into a case of option paralysis.
With flagrant disregard for any of the practical applications of warmness or protection, Owen’s Girdered Bubble Jacket, in sheer gathered ombre silk, is deliciously decorative, offering the viewer a foggy glimpse of what lies beneath. No sleeves, either. Just side vent openings akin to a cape. Its billowy and airy nature seems poised for flight.
Minimal in shape but with maximum impact, Dries Van Noten’s zip front coat dress says “celebration” with fireworks against the night sky. The soft cocoon shape envelopes for ease and comfort. When belted, it transforms into a dress reminiscent of a kimono, ceremonial and chic.
The M65 field jacket is simply one of the most iconic archetypes within the clothing lexicon. It has served as an endless source of inspiration for fashion with its pronounced four-pocket design. Worn by heroes and villains alike, the M65’s broad appeal lies in its utility and comfort. Jun Takahashi’s Undercover riff on this classic is wittily unconventional by cropping the length, adding a gentle flare, and feathering the surface for texture. Oh, and adding an extra set of sleeves (long or short, your choice) just to be cheeky. Takahashi’s inspiration is always inventive.