VIVIENNE WESTWOOD - THE STORY BEHIND THE STYLE

"Vivienne had this incredible ability to make history feel contemporary. She believed fashion wasn’t just about clothing – it was about ideas". - Andreas Kronthaler

 

 

 

The Westwood and McLaren duo

At the forefront of the punk revolution in fashion, stood Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, completely steamrolling conventional norms, and rebelling against everything the fashion world stood for. The duo was introduced when Malcolm was an art student and Vivienne was a primary school teacher. Vivienne was inspired by Malcolm and his peers, which launched her journey in designing Teddy Boy-style garments. Recognizing the power of their collaboration, in 1971 they opened "Let it Rock" based in London. This pushed them further into a provocative and rebellious territory, designing shirts with controversial slogans that shocked people at the time. As their shop's name changed repeatedly, they eventually landed on “SEX", known as "Worlds End" today. Through this boutique they continued to push the boundaries of what garments and products could represent, designing leather and bondage workwear pieces.

 

 


                                                                   

Black and white photo of a group of young men outdoors, one signing a document.

The Tie to the Sex Pistols

While their store flourished under the name “SEX”, Malcolm was simultaneously managing a band, making the strategic decision to rename them the Sex Pistols. This created a powerful synergy that allowed both the shop and band to spread punk ideology across different platforms. When the Sex Pistols released their notorious anthem "God Save the Queen," it sparked the creation of the iconic branded shirt by Vivienne and Malcolm. This controversial symbol became a defining moment for their brand, cementing their reputation for being provocative and boundary-breaking. Vivienne continued dressing the Sex Pistols, adorning them in distressed tees, bondage elements, safety pins, and graphics featuring the queen. This created a lasting connection between the band and Vivienne, paving their influence in the punk movement and rebellion within art and culture.

The Scale of Influence in the 90’s

Vivienne's evolution as a designer has inspired countless aesthetics in the contemporary world. As punk became increasingly mainstream, she entered a pivotal growth period, maintaining her signature rebellious codes while exploring new creative endeavors. This resulted in fresh silhouettes and innovative fabrications that pushed her work in new and exciting directions. Following her split from Malcolm, Vivienne found new inspiration in British history and 18th century French Rococo art, which allowed her to execute designs with a more sophisticated approach. She focused on refined tailoring that still carried her rebellious edge. Her runway shows from this era were groundbreaking, incorporating dramatic theatrical elements and solidified her influence on fashion's future.

Andreas Kronthaler- Following the Legacy today

The next succeeding duo of the house stemmed from Vivienne becoming a guest fashion design professor and Andreas being an industrial design student. The foundation of her collaboration with Andreas began with the "Cut and Slash" collection that debuted in Spring/Summer 1991. This collection tied directly to the inspiration Vivienne felt drawn to at the time. The fabric manipulation technique paid homage to a 16th century practice of slashing garments to expose underlying layers, which Vivienne and Andreas adapted to reveal the models' skin beneath. Their partnership strengthened through their contrasting but collaborative approaches. While Vivienne constantly pushed to break societal norms, Andreas brought a practical perspective, ensuring sustainable growth within the brand. In 2022, Vivienne Westwood tragically passed away, leaving Andreas to continue her legacy. As he honors her memory, he designs with her philosophy in mind: "Buy less, choose well, make it last." The house continues reducing their carbon footprint through eco-friendly materials and high-quality products. Andreas creates worlds within fashion that translate into art, just as Vivienne did, breaking boundaries and challenging norms with every collection.