At Paris Fashion Week: Four Perspectives on How We Move Through the World

At Paris Fashion Week, Matières Fécales, Jil Sander, Hodakova, and Institution by Galib Gassanof, each offer distinct reflections on how we move through the world. From family and community, to the ways we wear and assign meaning to the objects in our lives; each brand considers a different point of connection. Matières Fécales looks toward the human experience through themes of identity and community, while Jil Sander examines our relationship with clothing through the way it is lived in and worn. Hodakova reconsiders the life of existing objects, while Institution looks to culture and the ways it shapes our shared experience.

Matières Fécales

Titled The 99%, Matières Fécales’ Spring/Summer 2026 collection is rooted in designer Raj Bhaskaran’s childhood and immigrant heritage. Structured around three chapters: Family, Tribe, and Gods, the collection moves from the intimate bonds of family and community toward grander ideas of aspiration and freedom. Bhaskaran’s mother, sister, and niece joined him on the runway, making the collection an especially personal reflection on where we come from and the people who shape us. At its core, The 99% considers freedom as both an experience and an ongoing question, while honoring the strength and creativity found beyond the traditional boundaries of fashion and luxury.

Jil Sander

For Spring/Summer 2027, Simone Bellotti explores what happens when Jil Sander’s signature precision meets the unpredictability of real life. Familiar tailoring and polished silhouettes are intentionally disrupted by wrinkled jackets, slipping coats, untucked shirts, and pieces that appear to have been thrown on in a hurry. The collection plays with the small imperfections that naturally happen when we actually get dressed and go about our day. In doing so, Bellotti asks us to think about clothes less as perfect objects and more as things we live in, move through, and make our own.

Institution

Institution by Galib Gassanof looks at heritage through the idea of YAD- a word that can mean both “memory” and “foreign” or “strange” in Azerbaijani. The collection reflects on what it means to carry a sense of home and cultural belonging while also existing somewhere outside of it. That tension runs through Galib Gassanoff’s work, where memories of his heritage become a starting point for something new rather than a direct recreation of the past. His ongoing interest in shape and structure gives those ideas a physical form, turning cultural memory into something that can be carried forward.

Hodakova

The Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear collection from Hodakova turns the runway into a reflection on what we choose to see and what we choose to look away from. Models walked with eye shaped stickers covering their eyes, a visual nod to the selective attention we practice in everyday life, while the collection itself looked closely at our relationship with the environment. Ellen Hodakova worked with materials that already exist, transforming deadstock viscose with natural treatments like beeswax and pine tar. The result is a collection that brings questions of sustainability and our impact on the world into focus while finding new possibilities in what is already around us.

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