Marco Panconesi: The Archaeologist of Modern Jewelry

Panconesi creates jewelry that bridges traditional Italian craftsmanship with contemporary artistic expression. Founded by Marco Panconesi, the brand produces sculptural pieces that interact with the wearer's body, functioning as what the designer calls "emotional objects" for modern life.

JOURNEY

Marco Panconesi was born in Florence in 1989 into a family of educators and artisans. He initially studied classics with dreams of becoming an archaeologist, a background that continues to inform his design approach. Growing up in Florence, surrounded by both ancient history and radical design movements, shaped his aesthetic vision. His family's craftspeople, including a carpenter grandfather, taught him to respect materials from an early age.

After graduating from Polimoda in fashion design in 2011, Panconesi worked at Givenchy and later Balenciaga, designing jewelry and leather goods. By 2016, he had become an independent designer, collaborating with major brands like Mulberry, Mugler, and Fenty.

PHILOSOPHY

When Panconesi launched his eponymous brand in Paris in 2018, he aimed to create something between art and fashion, tradition and disruption. His jewelry functions as miniature sculptures that move with the body. Each piece draws from natural elements like earth tones and crystalline forms, but Panconesi uses what he describes as "modern alchemy" to create intensified colors and forgotten shapes reimagined in stone.

His archaeological background shows in how he approaches materials. Working with gold, silver, pearls, stones, crystals, and enamels, he creates pieces that feel both ancient and futuristic. He often reinterprets historical techniques like "en tremblant," an 18th-century method of mounting stones on flexible wires to catch light from different angles.

PROCESS

Panconesi treats each collection like an archaeological dig, uncovering new forms from classical inspirations. He starts by creating sculptural models in his studio before translating them into wearable pieces. His aesthetic favors simple geometric shapes like circles and spirals, but these apparent simplicities emerge from complex architectural thinking.

The designer describes his process as intuitive and experimental, combining different textures, metals, colors, and materials to find innovative ways of holding everything together. He sees his jewelry as having magical and protective qualities, serving as modern talismans that connect wearers to personal and collective stories.

CURRENT WORK

While building his own brand, Panconesi maintained significant industry positions. He became Head Jewelry Designer at Fendi in 2019 and Design Director at Swarovski in 2021. These roles allowed him to explore collaborative traditions while pushing creative boundaries.

Panconesi continues to evolve as both a brand and creative practice. Marco Panconesi himself views this as an extension of his personal growth, constantly changing and developing while maintaining respect for the solid foundation of traditional craftsmanship that supports his innovative vision.

Antidote is honored to offer a curated selection of Panconesi jewelry, with each piece reflecting the archaeological sensibility and modern alchemy that define the Panconesi vision.